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is the pleasant city, its avenues lined with palm trees and plants. It sets on the south eastern shore of lake Tana (Ethiopia’s largest lake), where local fishermen still use papyrus boats, and just 30km from the spectacular Tiss Isat Falls. Here the blue Nile creates” Smoking Water” an awe-inspiring sight as it plunges in to the gorge below. From Bahirdar you must explore some of the ancient monasteries that were built around Lake Tana, or on the many islands. These includes Deke Estifanos with its priceless collection of icons, as well as the remains of several medieval emperors, Kebran Gabriel (closed to women), and Ura-kidane Mehret with its famous frescoes. The colorful local market at Bahir Dar is renowned for its weaver’s baskets and wood workers.